Talerzyki Warsaw, Finest Food Stories
to-eat list

Warsaw

November 30th, 2018

BY Olga Badowska

Sausage, potatoes, vodka and pierogi are the items most often associated with Polish cuisine, but if you abandon stereotypes and eat your way around Warsaw you’ll see how much of an exciting time it is for discovering local flavors. The city received its first Michelin star in 2013, which was around the same time many young creative chefs returned from world travels with fresh hopes, ambitions and ideas for what Polish gastronomy could be. Casual eateries flourished as a result and these days chefs and conscious eaters are returning to long-forgotten dishes and seeking high quality produce to construct their own proud culinary identities.

VIEW ON MAP
FINE DINING

Atelier Amaro

The gamechanger

This fine dining restaurant changed the dynamics of local gastronomy when it received Poland’s first Michelin star and brought attention not just to its chef, but also to the whole country. Wojciech Modest Amaro is famous for dividing his weekly menu into elements relating to nature. He’s given a new meaning and form to typical Polish products such as sauerkraut and blood sausage; prompted a newfound appreciation for the commonplace celeriac and pumpkin; and he also uses once forgotten rowan berries and nettles in many of his recipes.

INSIDER TIP

Take the spirit pairing which spotlights artisanal Polish vodkas and tinctures and finishes with a flavorful herbal digestif called "Krzeska".

LOCAL SPECIALITY

Pyzy Flaki Gorace

Polish dumpling sweet spot

An inconspicuous place in heart of the Praga district, this is truly the last neighborhood where you can have an “old Warsaw” experience. At Pyzy Flaki Gorace –which neighbours the iconic yet languishing Rozycki bazaar– you’ll eat Warsaw’s oldest street food, pyzy. These ping pong ball-like dumplings are filled with meat and made in a kitchen alongside aromatic flaki (tripe soup), zur (sour rye soup), herrings in oil, jellied tongues and much more.

INSIDER TIP

For an "authentic" Warsaw experience skip milk bars and go straight here!

WORTH THE HYPE

Vegan Ramen Shop

Umami to the core

According to most food pundits this is the best ramen joint in Warsaw – even for meat eaters. What’s the secret? Well, they squeeze umami out of every ingredient whether it’s in the clear Shoyu Ramen with a broth based on six different types of mushroom, or the Creamy Shio dressed with burnt garlic oil. Whatever you order, you’ll be amazed.

INSIDER TIP

The place is petite and they don't take reservations so queuing (especially at weekends) is likely. There's also a second location in the Old Mokotów district (Kazimierzowska 43, 02-572) and whilst it is bigger, the crowds are no less thick.

WORTH THE HYPE

Rozbrat 20

Modern bistro dining

Bart Szymczak worked in esteemed London restaurants and travelled the globe with the hip One Star House Party pop-up before returning to Poland and being taken in by bright restaurateur, Daniel Pawelek. At Rozbrat 20, Bart combines all of his international inspirations in a menu that can, at any one time, spotlight ingredients such as mozzarella and miso alongside the more typically Polish beetroot, mulberry or cottage cheese. It works every time.

INSIDER TIP

Put your meal in the chef's hands. They have a great lunchtime tasting menu featuring five courses for 14€.

WORTH THE HYPE

Talerzyki

Interwar nostalgia and polish tapas

From its retro interiors and staff uniforms to the food, everything at Talerzyki is inspired by Poland’s elegant interwar period and a proud moment in Polish history. Potato batter dumplings, cabbage rolls, tartare, and fermented products are paired with vodka or classic cocktails. Whilst Polish food can be a touch heavy, Talerzyki (meaning “small plates”) serves tapas-sized portions allowing you to try more of local specialities.

INSIDER TIP

The fancy, downtown location and late opening hours make Talerzyki the best option for a classy pre-party. There’s nothing better than blood sausage and a cold vodka before hitting up a club!

BAKED GOODS

Odette

Perfect pastries

Since opening in 2014 as Warsaw’s very first boutique pastry shop, many imitators have followed suit but Odette remains invincible. Perhaps it has something to do with the man behind the counter, Krzysztof Rabek, who is responsible for all the flavor combinations here. Some say he’s one of the most talented chefs in Poland and his unconventional training shows in Odette’s decadent sweets, petit gateaux, pralines, eclairs and puffs.

INSIDER TIP

The owners of Odette also have a second location in a luxury cosmopolitan space at Twarda 4, 00-105. At this tearoom you’ll be able to try petite versions of all Odette's desserts and have a cup of many original tea blends.

BAKED GOODS

Cala w Mace

Poland's baking innovator

Monika Walecka is the new face of bread baking in Poland. This food photographer, Instagrammer and techno lover became obsessed with artisan bread while working in San Francisco and so, once back in Warsaw, she rented out a workspace and started her own micro-bakery. Monika doesn’t take shortcuts, even choosing to grind heirloom wheat varieties herself. You’ll find her crusty loaves at Forteca’s weekly farmer market or follow her Instagram account for spontaneous pop-up sales.

INSIDER TIP

From time to time Monika takes on fellow bread enthusiasts for an internship. If you’re serious about kneading and baking message her, perhaps you’ll get lucky!

TRAILBLAZER

Bez Gwiazdek

The definition of regional Polish cooking

One of the most exciting dining restarants in town due to chef, Robert Trzópek, and his unique portrayal of Poland’s diverse regional cuisine. With previous experience of working at Noma and elBulli, Robert took a leap of faith in Polish gastronomy and became the chef-owner of this neo-bistro setting himself the task of changing the menu every month in order to serve dishes from one region of Poland at a time.

INSIDER TIP

What is "kartacz"? Does "rosopita" have anything to do with pita? Don’t hesitate to ask questions about regional dishes here. The whole crew are extremely passionate about digging into traditional recipes and they'll happily share their extensive knowledge with guests.

MARKET EXPERIENCE

Hala Gwardii

Revived 19th century trading

This former market hall, turned boxing hall, turned hideous supermarket was given a fourth lease of life last year. Now the 19th century building hosts food stalls once more alongside a space for cultural events. From Friday through to Sunday you can buy Polish and foreign specialities, try local beers and wines, and eat plenty of great party foods from young vendors.

INSIDER TIP

There’s a good balance between meat-centric and vegan-friendly offerings. "Tel Aviv Urban Food" is just one of many worth mentioning.

MARKET EXPERIENCE

Forteca Kregliccy

Meet Warsarw's food heroes

This actual fortress is also an event space six days a week, but every Wednesday it gathers cheese and charcuterie makers; farmers and orchard growers; bakers and beekeepers; and many more under one roof for a farmer’s market. All vendors are carefully selected by Warsaw’s respected restaurateur, Agnieszka Kreglicka, whose aim in setting up the market was to bring Warsaw’s food heroes and its consumers, closer together.

INSIDER TIP

Don’t miss rare herbs and veggies from Mr Ziolko; Jersey milk yogurt and cheeses from Mleczna Droga; soft, fresh goats cheese from Zeby Kozka; and traditional smoked meats from Dreszler.

Breakfast

Stor

The brew comes first

Probably the most instagrammable spot in Warsaw, but luckily that’s not the only reason to visit Stor. The baristas here are no strangers to drippers, Aeropress or Chemex and, with pleasure, they’ll always offer you new blends to try – sometimes from foreign roasteries such as Bonanza or Rusty Nails but other times from local ones including Coffee Republic and Good Coffee. If you want to know more about Warsaw coffee culture grab a copy of Varsavia Coffee Spots on your way out – a beautiful self-published  guide made by Stor’s owner.

INSIDER TIP

Don't miss the macarons, donuts, pralines or cakes all made by some of Warsaw's most skilled artisans.

Breakfast

Krem

Day-long breakfast vibes

Located on a quiet downtown street, Krem is the perfect place for a lazy breakfast or brunch but don’t let the time put you off as owner and French expat, Luc Magnon, welcomes diners from early morning until late evening. If you’re looking for the breakfast of champions you can’t go wrong with anything you order whether it’s a delicate omelette or hearty rump steak sandwich.
Photo: Magdalena Kozicka

INSIDER TIP

Luc’s famous Croque Monsieur is famed amongst local foodies as Warsaw's best hangover cure. Actually, it could cure anything apart from arteriosclerosis.

CHEF'S CHOICE

Maka i Woda

Neapolitan pizza perfection

Hidden at the back of an otherwise touristy street, Maka i Woda serves great Neapolitan pizzas. The name itself indicates simplicity – mąka i woda means “flour and water”. The menu is short, and dishes consist of nothing but a few of the best quality ingredients imported from Italy. This, and a central location, made it a favorite casual spot for Warsaw’s chefs who come here on their day’s off to indulge in homemade pasta and shake hands with their pal, chef Pawel Fabis. The infamous ravioli with homemade ricotta and egg yolk is a must-eat.

INSIDER TIP

If your carnivorous nature calls drop in next door at the newly opened "Supperlardo" which is run by the same crew and offers outstanding home-cured meats.

mon-thu 12:00-15:00 & 16:00-22:00fri: 12:00-15:00 & 16:00-23:00sat: 12:00-23:00sun: 12:00-20:00
THE INSTITUTION

Klub SPATiF

Communist decadence

During the communist era, Klub SPATiF was the drinking point of choice for artists, filmmakers, intellectuals, socialites and secret agents. The club’s golden times lasted from the ’50s through to the ’70s, after which it was neglected and forgotten about. But last year after a major renovation it regained its former glory and crowds of young Varsovians came flooding back. Those needing something solid before cocktails and vodka should go straight to a dining room.

INSIDER TIP

Order the pork aspic, herring, and a homemade hot dog.

Tue-Wed: 12:00-23:00Thu: 12:00-1:00Fri: 12:00-1:00Sat: 18:00-1:00Sun: 14:00-22:00
WINE BAR

Alewino

Wine bar and bistro synergy

Chef, Sebastian Welpa, embraces local and seasonal ingredients cooked with a slight French flair. He likes vibrant flavors but prepares them in an non-showy way making mandatory picks of the celeriac ravioli with cauliflower, truffle, and burnt butter as well as the trout tartare with pearl barley popcorn, chokeberry and dill sauce. Wines by the glass cost a maximum of 8€ and you’ll always find something appealing.

INSIDER TIP

Try Polish wines (yes, they do exist and are growing in popularity). Wineries to note are: Winnica Turnau, Wzgorza Trzebnickie, Dom Bliskowice and Skarpa Dobrska but whatever these guys have will be a spot-on selection.

Olga Badowska

Olga is a food journalist, editor and researcher based in Warsaw. A curious mind, hungry writer, trend hunter and restless seeker of honest food she was vice editor-in-chief of Kuchnia magazine. Her print work includes travel and food history features, interviews with world-renowned chefs, recipe development and events both foreign and domestic. She works with Usta Magazine and is the co-founder of Mlask - an online platform focusing on gastronomy culture and chefs.


Simple Share Buttons